Buying a suit or tuxedo can be very intimidating.  If you don’t wear one routinely, it’s hard to know where to start. 

 

The single most important factor is fit.  If you don’t have a good fit, no matter the quality of the fabric or the price of the suit, you’ve got nothing.  The way we judge a fit is how the suit fits in the shoulder and chest.  These areas can’t be easily tailored.  On the other hand, it’s easy for a tailor to take sleeves up or down, taper the coat or pant leg, let the coat out or the waist out, and of course, pant bottoms can be hemmed to an exact length. 

Put the coat on.  Bottom the top button (never a bottom button), and look at yourself in the mirror.  Don’t tug on the button, that’s not how we judge a fit.  Instead look at the shoulder – does the shoulder of the jacket end where your shoulder ends?  If it’s too small you will see the sleeve-head sucked in where the shoulder meets the sleeve.  If it’s too big you’ll see the shoulder hanging over your shoulder and excess room where your body doesn’t fill out the shoulder of the jacket. 

If all’s well, put on the pant. Too tight?  If you can button the pant it can likely be altered to fit properly.  There’s a 2 inch letout at the waist for a tailor to provide more room.  Too loose?  Generally speaking, 2 inches or less is no big deal for a tailor.  2 to 6 inches becomes a semi-recut where the pant is taken in both along the sides and the back so it all lines up properly (keeps your back pockets from touching each other).  This is work a competent tailor does on a routine basis, but it is work for a tailor, not a dry-cleaner.  More than 6 inches?  That’s a full recut where the tailor is making you a new pair of pants.  This is a good time to note that we can switch suit pants for a different size in black, navy, charcoal & cobalt for a small fee. 

Classic or slim fit?

Obviously a slim fit is tighter than a classic fit.  But what else?  The shoulder is narrower or comes in compared to a classic fit.  The armhole of a slim fit suit is smaller and tighter. Lastly, the pant leg is trimmer.  (Note, a tailor can taper a pant leg to your specification).  Slim fits are designed for guys built like an explanation point “!”, straight up and down.  Classic fit suits have a broader shoulder and a larger, more comfortable armhole.  If you are a body builder you will need a classic fit to contain your muscles. 

Which color? 

That’s between you and your fiancé.  And remember, she’s right!  But, if you’re looking for a suggestion . Black is the most formal choice.  Navy, just as dressy as black but the color adds some warmth.  It’s also super versatile for other events.  Charcoal is the cool version of navy and can also be used for many events.  Cobalt blue is navy on steroids – it has some serious fashion kick. Medium grey is a softer, easy shade – especially for afternoon weddings.  Dove grey is particularly nice for morning weddings. 

What’s the difference between a suit and tuxedo? 

Before getting started on differences, everything noted above about fit applies to tuxedos too.  Except for one detail which you’ll have to read on to learn. 

 A tuxedo is a magical outfit.  A costume that signals you’re attending something very special.  It’s for the dressiest, most elegant of events.  To make a suit a tuxedo, we add satin on the lapels, satin down the outside seams of the pants, and satin covered buttons.  Tuxedos are worn with a special formal shirt (traditionally pleated) with either a laydown or wing collar.  A laydown collar is like a regular dress shirt collar.  A wing collar are two small triangles (wings) to the left and right of your tie’s knot.  These shirts are designed to be worn with cufflinks and studs.  Studs are button replacements for the front of your shirt.  Traditionally a tuxedo is worn with a bowtie and cummerbund set.